Top 10 Vehicles for Your EMP Survival

C. Davis
By C. Davis March 11, 2016 14:39

Top 10 Vehicles for Your EMP Survival

The survivors of a major EMP event are going to have to adjust to doing without a lot of technology that we take for granted right now. Most electronics will be fried beyond repair and it will be years – in some cases decades – before anyone is able to start making replacements. A lot of old skills are going to have to be dusted off or relearned, and in many ways life will go back to how it was in the early 20th century. If the initial chaos that follows the attack continues more than a few weeks things could be forced back in time a lot further than that, with many daily tasks needing the technology of the 19th century.

It’s obvious that the more modern technology you can preserve, the better your chances of survival will be. That’s why building at least one Faraday cage is such a good idea – it will let you protect some vital items from the surge of current caused by the attack. Some things are hard to protect with a Faraday cage though, and one of the most important is your vehicle.

The advantages of having a working vehicle after an EMP attack are obvious. If you live in an urban or suburban area you’re almost certainly going to want to bug out as soon as you can. Social breakdown will make these districts very dangerous places to be, and the more prepared you are the more of a target you’ll be for organized looters or desperate people who want your gear to improve their own chances. Heading out on foot has its own dangers though. You’re seriously limited in how much gear you can carry – 50 pounds is a realistic load, and that won’t be comfortable. If you’re an ex-infantryman who doesn’t mind going slowly and hurting a lot you can double that, but it still isn’t a lot when your long-term survival depends on it. You’ll also be vulnerable to attack, and unable to get away from trouble in a hurry unless you abandon your load.

Related: 7 Actions to Take Immediately Following an EMP Strike

With a vehicle, on the other hand, you can cover as much ground in half an hour as you can walk in a day. There’s space for a heavy load of supplies and gear. You have the ability to drive out of trouble, especially if the opposition are all on foot. The problem is that modern vehicles aren’t very good at surviving an EMP. They have so many electronic systems that most of them will be totally, and permanently, immobilized. However, if you start looking at older vehicles you’re going to find some excellent choices. Focus on less sophisticated 4wd models and there are some real advantages:

  • Less electronics to go wrong
  • Cheap to buy
  • Simple, easily maintained engines – get a diesel if you can; the fuel will be available for longer
  • More rugged than modern equivalents

The ideal post-EMP vehicle is a diesel pickup or SUV with a stick shift and a carbureted engine. Four wheel drive is an essential, not an option; the roads are going to be jammed with immobilized wrecks, and if you can’t move across country you won’t be going far. Here are the top ten choices for your bug-out vehicle:

#10 HarleyDavidson MT350E

Harley-Davidson MT350E
A motorbike has a lot going for it if you’re traveling alone. It’s less conspicuous than a larger vehicle, doesn’t need as much fuel and is a lot more agile. A car is going to have real trouble on roads cluttered with dead vehicles, but a bike can weave its way through most of the time. The Harley Davidson MT350E is made in the USA but Harley actually bought the design from British company Armstrong, whose MT500 model had been selected as the standard NATO dispatch rider’s bike. It’s been updated, with a smaller 350cc engine and electric starter, and it’s a really excellent off road machine. It also has military spec shielded wiring, which improves its chances of surviving. Even if the electrics do get fried it can be kick-started, making it one of the most EMP-resistant vehicles you’ll find.

Approx. price: $1250

#9 Jeep CJ

Jeep CJ

This is a much smaller and more utilitarian Jeep. In fact it’s basically just the civilian version of the original military Willys GP, and was built in huge numbers from 1944 to 1986. Compact, lightweight and simple to keep in running order, it also has amazing off road performance. It is small though, so this one is really for a maximum of two people plus gear. The engines are electronics-free, so aren’t going to get wrecked by EMP, and small enough to give great fuel economy.

Approx. price: $6000

#8 Jeep Cherokee SJ

Jeep Cherokee SJ

The original Jeep SUV, the 1973-1984 Cherokee is a solidly built vehicle that’s old enough to have a simple and EMP-resistant electrical system but recent enough to be fairly comfortable. Its massive gasoline engine isn’t all that fuel efficient but it does have immense pulling power. Because it’s a popular American model it’s easy to find spares for a Cherokee, and this is something the smart prepper will always take into account. There’s no point in getting a survival vehicle that you can’t get replacement parts for.

Approx. price: $14.000

#7 Volkswagen Thing

Volkswagen Thing

Officially known as the Type 181, the Volkswagen Thing is an updated, civilianized version of the World War II Kubelwagen. It’s based on a VW Bug drivetrain, including the aircooled rear-mounted engine. That makes it extremely easy to maintain, and it also means you can use easily available Bug parts for many repairs. Although it has a small 1.4 or 1.6 liter 4-cylinder engine, and is rear wheel drive, its light weight gives it good cross-country performance. It will also carry four people and a decent amount of gear.

Approx price: $9.000

#6 Toyota Hilux N30

Toyota Hilux N30

If you prefer a truck to an SUV the third-generation Toyota Hilux is a great choice. Built from 1978 to 1983, it has a tough and simple diesel engine with minimal to no electronics, so it’s not highly susceptible to EMP. It’s also smaller and more fuel-efficient than the average modern truck, while still giving you a respectable load space and good off road performance.

Approx. price: $4.000

#5 Toyota Land Cruiser J40

Toyota Land Cruiser J40

Modern Land Cruisers are high end, luxurious SUVs. The J40, built from 1960 to 1984, is a completely different beast. It’s tough and simple, and has phenomenal cross country ability. Toyota are also still making many parts for it, so it’s not hard to build up a good spares set, Hundreds of thousands of J40s are still in use as working vehicles all round the world. It can survive just about anything, and thanks to its lack of electronics that includes an EMP.

#4 International Harvester Scout

International Harvester Scout

The Scout is a minor classic; on its introduction in 1961 it became the first of the modern SUVs. Up to then, if you wanted an off road vehicle you didn’t have many alternatives to the utilitarian Jeep. The Scout gave excellent off road performance plus reasonable comfort. The original model can attract quite high prices if it’s in good condition, but what you want is the Scout II. This was built from 1971 to 1980 and there are enough around that a decent one shouldn’t cost too much. The Scout’s big advantage is that it contains no computers and practically nothing electronic, so it’s inherently EMP-resistant.

Approx price: $22.000



Another ex-US Army model, and even cheaper at auction; you can pick these up for well under $1,000. The CUCV is basically a militarized 1984 Chevy Blazer, and tens of thousands of them were bought in the 1980s. Most of them were quickly put into storage, because their combination of powerful engines and dubious stability didn’t work well in the hands of young soldiers – they were very prone to ending up on their roof. Driven sensibly they’re excellent, tough load carriers with good off road performance. Look for an M1008 pickup or M1009 command car/station wagon.

Approx price: $5.200



Ex-military vehicles have a lot going for them. They can often be picked up cheap, and they’re generally at least partly hardened against EMP. The famous US military HMMWV is a good example. It’s powerful and incredibly robust, with decent off road performance, but also simple to maintain and not loaded down with electronics. Low mileage ex-Army ones can be picked up for as little as $5,000 from surplus dealers. The M998 model is basically a dual-cab pickup with a large load bed; there’s a military issue metal hard top available for it as well, which reduces load space but improves weather protection and security. The HMMWV is very good at fording rivers and crossing rough ground – it’s not as agile as a Land Rover, but has plenty of power. Civilian Hummer models are nowhere near as simple or robust as military ones and should be avoided.

From as little as $5.000

#1 Land Rover 90/110

Land Rover

The Land Rover has been the workhorse of the British Army for decades, and it’s famous for its rugged construction and simplicity. In 1990 it rebranded as the Defender and updated with a modern, electronically controlled engine, but if you can find a 1980s 110 (long wheelbase) or 90 (short wheelbase) diesel you have a vehicle that stands an excellent chance of coming through an EMP unhurt. The Rover’s cross country ability is very hard to beat and it’s also excellent at towing. A truck or military-style soft top gives you the maximum load space; station wagon 110 models can fit up to eight passengers in the back. There’s also plenty of expedition gear available for the Land Rover that works very well on a BOV too.

Price: $12.000 – $35.000

Obviously, having a working vehicle to hand really increases your odds of surviving the end of the world as we know it, so it’s worth making some effort to find the right one. The job doesn’t end there, though. Once you have your vehicle there are some more steps to make sure it’s going to be running after the EMP.

Firstly, put together a set of spare key electrical components. A starter motor and alternator are the bare minimum. These aren’t as vulnerable to EMP as electronic components, but they do contain a lot of wire and a strong pulse could heat that up enough to cause serious damage. If your chosen vehicle has anti-lock brakes, electronic fuel injection or any other computer-controlled functions get spare controllers and add them to your gear. Then store all your replacement parts in a Faraday cage. If an EMP hits it will almost certainly come without warning, so you need to be prepared.

Related: 10 Things to Have Ready before the Huge EMP !!!

Check the vehicle body. To some extent that can act as its own Faraday cage, giving some protection to the systems inside. You can improve on it, though. The most important thing to do is to ensure electric currents can flow freely around the body, which will minimize the pulse that gets through to the interior. Firstly, ground each part of the body to the frame and make sure the vehicle isn’t grounded to the actual ground. The tires will act as natural insulators, which helps you here. Next look at panel lines. If there are any gaps these can generate secondary pulses that might cause damage, so do what you can to close them. On a dedicated BOV you probably don’t care much about looks, so consider sanding the joins down to bare metal, covering them with conductive metallic tape then painting over the top. When the vehicle’s not being used make foil-coated covers for the windows.

Go over the wiring, too. Where possible replace unshielded wires with shielded ones. If there’s any old wiring left over from accessories you’ve removed, strip it out – it can generate more currents during an EMP. Reroute essential cables so they run as close as possible to the frame and body panels, but make sure they’re well insulated. All these steps will reduce the chances of damage occurring.

Related: 7 Things That Will Survive an EMP

Having a working vehicle could be the difference between life and death once an EMP attack has taken place. You’ll be able to move more quickly, carrying the gear you need to survive along the way to your bug-out destination. Once you get there you’ll have the ability to forage more effectively over wider distances, plus a way to rapidly evacuate if the situation changes. It doesn’t even have to be an expensive precaution to take. Because the vehicles most likely to survive an EMP are old, they’re also cheap. It really doesn’t make any sense to prepare for disaster but not make sure that your transport will still be running after the first moments of the crisis.

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C. Davis
By C. Davis March 11, 2016 14:39
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  1. Gwen March 12, 16:42

    Should we store fuel in large fuel cans? What other advice can you provide?

    Reply to this comment
    • iWillSurvive November 13, 17:38

      No you should store fuel in your ass. Yes, obviously you should store fuel in fuel cans.

      If SHTF most of you McDonald’s eating lard-asses are going to die anyways.

      Reply to this comment
      • Stud November 24, 22:13

        What a fag

        Reply to this comment
      • "I will survive" - lol January 23, 22:28

        Maybe you “will survive”, but you will still be a rude asshole. Try looking in the mirror and seeing what is really there.

        Reply to this comment
        • PlainJanePrepper June 4, 07:15

          Don’t pay attention to trolls. Good for you asking questions. To answer, yes you can and should store fuel. However, treat it with Stabil. Modern gasoline is made with ethanol. Ethanol degrades and will damage your engine once it gets old. Stabil is kind of like a preservative. Keep in mind that even with Stabil, the fuel will degrade, just not as fast. Be sure to rotate the fuel by using it in your vehicle, filling the cans back up, retreating with Stabil and so forth. Good question!

          Reply to this comment
          • Jake July 16, 16:54

            There are some stations that sell 100% gasoline with no ethanol, would you pay the extra price to store this and what its door longer? Or how long does it normally last if it doesn’t have ethanol in it? Thanks

            Reply to this comment
      • Shawn February 11, 13:41

        No need to be a smartass

        Reply to this comment
      • jp March 10, 15:19

        hey troll he asked about LARGE fuel can.

        Reply to this comment
      • Lonejack April 6, 20:43

        Wow!! Great responce… You just scared a new person away. Shure guaranteed that people who don’t know WON’T ask ANY questions. So when SHFT, they will be part of the problem, rather than part of the solution.

        Shure glad You have all the answers….

        Reply to this comment
      • Shinshi October 24, 22:08

        Is your arse big enough Iwill? It’s always nice to be nice. Share info and don’t let your little ego stop you from growing up.

        Reply to this comment
      • Barry Soetoroe November 14, 05:28

        You will not survive long as an asshole. Mr. Crosshairs may ensure that.

        Reply to this comment
    • jil February 9, 00:33

      The answer to your question is probably more in lines of how much you want to spend. Our farm has a refueling station that is basically a 150 gallon tank. There’s also gas caddies that hold 50 gallons. 55-gallon drums (I believe those need to be vented or pressure valve) always do your research. You’ll want to add stabilizer to the gasoline. It won’t stay good long term without stabilizer. and Yes, if you just want a little gasoline on hand you can use jerrycans. I’d also get a good siphon and practice using it. It all depends on how much you want to store and how comfortable you want to be. Obviously “IWillSurvive” has his can and hasn’t really thought the subject through to do better.

      Reply to this comment
    • Axelsteve March 9, 02:09

      you do not want to go over 5 gallon cans do to weight.

      Reply to this comment
    • PlainJanePrepper June 4, 07:13

      Don’t pay attention to trolls. Good for you asking questions. To answer, yes you can and should store fuel. However, treat it with Stabil. Modern gasoline is made with ethanol. Ethanol degrades and will damage your engine once it gets old. Stabil is kind of like a preservative. Keep in mind that even with Stabil, the fuel will degrade, just not as fast. Be sure to rotate the fuel by using it in your vehicle, filling the cans back up, retreating with Stabil and so forth. Good question!

      Reply to this comment
  2. left coast chuck March 12, 17:03

    For those of us on a somewhat more restricted budget, as someone else suggested, a 250 cc dirt bike with kick start. Use saddlebags over the tank and a backpack. Notice that the courier bike fits this description somewhat closely although it is bigger.

    For the even more severely budget handicapped, a mountain bike in the price range of about $600 is another substitute. Make sure it has the lowest gearing possible. Make sure it has a trailer hitch so that you can pull a trailer with it. Make sure it has fittings for panniers both fore and aft. If you think you can’t haul a load on a bike you haven’t been paying attention to history. The NVA moved tons of gear south over the Ho Chi Min trail. Even little kids who can ride can haul their sleeping bags and light weight items on their bikes. Bikes will be extremely valuable in the event of a major blackout. They are truly the most energy efficient means of transportation ever devised.

    Reply to this comment
    • Timbo July 15, 15:32

      If using a motorcycle, try to get as quiet of a muffler as you can, no need to advertise where you are any sooner than necessary. Goes for any of the other motor vehicles as well.

      Reply to this comment
  3. Ron March 12, 17:37

    In a bug out situation travel speed is most certainly going to be slow. Not a typical 65 MPH get away. One of the best vehicles I can think of for a bug out situation is a diesel driven 4 wheel drive tractor with a towed 4 wheel wagon containing the family and all the equipment necessary for the trip. Travel speed will be slow but it will work well over rough terrain and will certainly serve to move obstacles as necessary. Finding the right tractor is the trick. Any suggestions ??

    Reply to this comment
    • Pedro September 7, 12:25

      Ford 445/545 4X4 I owned several of these they were reliable low profile tractors

      Reply to this comment
    • Silvercoal July 8, 16:41

      I have a Yanmar YM2000 gray market tractor, 22 hp. Paid $2300. Diesel engine, very simple to maintain. Spare parts are everywhere. I have several small trailers and one dual-axle trailer rated 7000 lbs. The tractor isn’t especially quiet, but its ruggedness is just phenomenal.

      Reply to this comment
    • PlainJanePrepper June 4, 07:20

      Try auctions. I worked at an auction for a while. We once auctioned off a fleet of restored tractors in mint condition. I was stunned that they went for such a low price. (So was the seller.) The cool thing was that they were MINT! Some sold for less than 7K. It was like getting a brand new tractor for a fraction of the price.

      Reply to this comment
    • Billinator September 12, 04:53

      FJ40, best tractor ever, 4×4 very simple, runs forever, well built, parts availability as well as a reputation world wide.

      Reply to this comment
  4. keith March 13, 03:19

    Will one of those local storage facilities, which are usually made of metal, act as a farady cage?
    Would a motorcycle be protected if it was stored inside?

    Reply to this comment
    • left coast chuck March 13, 04:16

      Keith: I had the same question and I guess the answer is: Maybe. It appears to me from my reading that the more shielding you have the better chance there is of negating the electron flow that will short out whatever it is that you have stored. I recently read some experiments conducted with voltmeters and heavy charges and even sealing the edges of the container made a significant (in my estimation) difference in the electron flow into the container. In the experiment they used metallic tape and also duct tape and interestingly enough duct tape provided a better seal than the special expensive metallic tape. For example, a motorcycle with a magneto starter as opposed to an electric starter in a metal shed with the motorcycle covered with mylar emergency blankets with the edges of the blanket sealed with duct tape may provide better protection than a motorcycle sitting in a metal shed which provides better protection than a motorcycle sitting in a wooden barn which provides better protection than a motorcycle sitting out in the open. In any event, another conclusion I drew from reading the tests is that you don’t have to totally eliminate all electron leakage. There is a certain point below which no damage is done even though there might be some leakage. As with the wiring in your house, you can have a voltage surge that blows the fuses but doesn’t harm the wiring or you can have a voltage surge that blows the fuses and also melts the wiring in the walls, depending upon how much voltage flows down the line before it melts. I wish I could remember where I read about the test. If I could, I would list it as a reference. It was interesting but slightly above my electronic knowledge level. I know this doesn’t answer your question directly but hope it helps understand shielding against the electron flow caused by a CME or EMP. In my opinion, an EMP would probably do the most damage to electronic gear. In ascending order of damage is a ground attack on our grid system, a CME and finally an EMP attack from a nuclear device. All three would thrust us back to 18th century living but for most of us without the life skills that the folks had at that time. For instance, when was the last time you butchered a hog and smoked the meat? Even today, for those of us who hunt, after we field dress the animal we drop it of at a butcher shop that specializes in butchering game and when we pick it up, we take it home and put it in the freezer. I guess I could whack up a deer into manageable chunks of meat. Then what? I don’t have a smoke house. I guess I could make jerky out of it on my charcoal fired barbecue, but while I might be really happy to have a steady diet of venison jerky, I suspect it would get old pretty quick and I would want to think of some other way to preserve any animal I harvested. I have never sheared a sheep in my life and I know my wife does not know how to spin wool into yarn. She can knit very well, but is a little weak on spinning — plus, no spinning wheel.

      Reply to this comment
      • madcat March 15, 01:45

        my suggestion is build a faraday cage I have seen videos on utube on how to build one number one thing I would put in there is a car battery or a flash drive and a spare radio

        Reply to this comment
        • Carrie March 16, 08:45

          No need to put the battery into the cage. It can be left sitting out, just don’t hook anything up to it.

          As for the spare radio – where will you be getting radio signals from? There won’t be any power for the stations to broadcast. If you’re talking a HAM radio, that’s different, there are plenty of HAMs with shielded components waiting to be put into use after an EMP and they’ll be up and running. Dropping a few inexpensive Baofeng radios into your faraday cage (or can) is a good idea.

          A flash drive won’t do you any good without a computer to read it, and a computer needs power. So if you want your flash drive to be readable, you’ll also need to drop in a small laptop computer, an inverter so you can run it off of DC power (like a car battery), and make sure you’ve got some way to get power. A fold-up solar panel to trickle charge that battery would be good. A few of them ready to be daisy-chained would be even better.

          Reply to this comment
          • KingAlex December 28, 16:13

            Nearly all commercial radio and tv stations have emergency power sources. It is a good bet that at least some of them will be getting signals of some kind out. I was CHENG at a 500W daylight radio station where we had an Army WW-II era backup generator that an EMP would not have damaged. Most of the station broadcast equipment, including the transmitter, was tube technology, also EMP proof. Granted that many stations have modernized with solid state technology, however, many put the old tube-type equipment in storage for emergency backup use. Your EMP protected radios and even small TV’s may still find signals when TSHTF. Patience is needed because you can be sure that all of the stations are scrambling to get on the air. The CD stations will have been better equipped and likely swiftly back on the air. Not to mention old classic Ham Radio and CB gear. Lots of it is available on eBay. I think the best Ham Radio equipment to seek is a fully functional Collins KWM2A general coverage, which can be tuned to military and other frequencies. Look for the best guaranteed fully functional equipment, rather than several junkers. For CB, look for equipment from the 1960’s – the older the better. SSB capability would be a plus, but the transceiver must be AM capable, because that’s where you will find on air signals from the older equipment. And even if you think your old tube-type Ham or CB equipment might be EMP proof, store it in a good Faraday Cage anyhow. And don’t forget wire for an antenna. String a 100′ or longer wire between some trees and structures, stick one clean copper wire end into the antenna outlet on the transceiver and tune it up to radiate and receive signals. An inexpensive long wire antenna tuner would be an excellent acquisition. Again, eBay is the best source. No equipment at hand? Google “Foxhole Radio” to find out how you can make a radio receiver out of a razor blade, a lead pencil, some magnet wire, a round oatmeal box or similar (even a toilet paper cardboard center), and if you can find it, a WW-II era crystal headset. This is a fascinating construction project for anyone over the age of 5. And it works! Oh, yes, you have a 1N4 or similar diode, you say? The diode will be nailed by an EMP, but not the razor blade. A crystal and cat-whisker will do, too. I would also think that if you can find a working antique radio from pre-1945, you can just stick it on a shelf in your house and it will be EMP proof. Of course, AC power will be needed, but that’s another story.

            Reply to this comment
          • Terry May 13, 02:08

            Even IF the solar panel was not fried it would be useless with a charge controller that would be fried for sure.

            Reply to this comment
        • Sarge February 10, 22:01

          If you have one of the more modern vehicles you might learn how to replace the on board computer system, and then buy one direct from the automobile manufacture, also add in a complete set of fuses. Wrap you vehicle that is your bug out vehicle in a complete faraday bubble and seal it up but insure your sitting on concrete not on dirt.

          Reply to this comment
      • BKPawpaw August 11, 23:01

        left coast chuck, you stated that you felt that an EMP was more dangerous than a CME.

        You are wrong!

        An EMP will only last for about one second while the CME will be continuous for maybe several days.

        The VOLTAGE is not what is harmful, it is the CURRENT that will attack the components and wiring. The longer the current flows the more damage that will occur.

        Every Faraday Cage must have no holes larger than the standard window screen wire. The metal cans with popcorn, etc. are excellent.

        The reason that the metal tape did not work was because the adhesive prevents the tape from sealing properly. Aluminum foil with duct tape is much better.

        Reply to this comment
      • joe February 1, 04:41

        The motorcycle with a magneto starter as opposed to an electric starter will do fine with no additional shielding..

        Reply to this comment
    • A_Venez_Prepper January 5, 20:23

      Most certainly not…imagine the EMP(with wave lengths the order of very small,high energy microwaves,able to damage even LED lamps) as a high pressure water flooding,able to penetrate even the smaller gaps.If EMP was my concern I would steer away of high tech vehicles, or would keep in a buried faraday cage spares enough for a lifetime.

      Reply to this comment
    • Russ June 1, 02:51

      A faraday cage has a percentage of electrical current that through testing it is assumed to block. In building my faraday cages i always assume less than i believe it will protect. My 30×40 foot barn is assumed at 80% so my caculations start at 75%. A 50000 volt emp equals 12500 volts gets into barn. I built a faraday cage inside my pole barn. It is assumed that it is at 95 % so my calculations are at 90 %. 12500 volts in barn x 90% equals1250 volts. Then i have metal trash cans, metal 55 gallon drums, metal ammo cans stacked in faraday cages. It is assumed that they are 95 % so again i figure at 90%. 1250 volts in faraday cage x90% equals 11.25 volts. Hopefully i have erred on the side of caution and all my electronics have survived.

      Reply to this comment
    • Jake July 26, 05:23

      No absolutely not – my engineer friend studied the hell out of EMPs and how they effect things. A true Faraday csge room/shelter is very difficult to construct and has to have a few pertinent aspects – sealed. But then you have to have ventilation. There are several myths that are bogus – metal trashcan or microwaves used to store small electronics – they do not work. Ome off the shelf true Faraday cage is the All-American pressure cooker with the lid with screw down latches – my friend ran the specs and it serves as a perfect Faraday csge to store small items like hand held radios, hard drives or even smart phone to use to view pdf survival docs

      Reply to this comment
  5. dimitrios karakostas March 14, 16:53

    What about Lada Niva!!??

    Reply to this comment
  6. njdave March 14, 16:57

    most vehicles listed do have some form of electronics in them. pretty much everyting from about 1977 up does. the jeeps have the ford electronic igntion in them.

    Reply to this comment
    • El oso May 29, 15:50

      Ford F 250 Diesel from 1983 thru 1992 are mostly electronic free. the only solid state part is the voltage regulator over on the fender well. They cost $30.00. wrap in double falum foil put in cardboard box and change out when needed. You might need to carry a few tools to do the change.

      Reply to this comment
  7. Pappy March 14, 19:18

    Another model, its not 4wheel drive is older diesel vw 1986 and older i found can run on 60/40 diesel to used oil mix and can get alot of miles out of a tank

    Reply to this comment
  8. Racinrick March 15, 17:54

    I have found the best offroad vehicle short of a mule is an old throwaway front wheel drive car with grip tires on front and wide tires on the rear…sheetmetal cut to fit. I used an 82 Toro for several years until I blew the engine. Now I use a 90 Corsica V6 with a skid plate bolted underneath the front.

    Reply to this comment
  9. Donnie March 16, 01:27

    For the cost of buying another (EMP immune) vehicle, couldn’t you more cheaply just buy a back-up electronic card to replace the fried one in your more modern vehicle and store it in a Faraday cage? The advantage is that you would have a vehicle that is made to run on the fuel of the day, not leaded fuel? You wouldn’t have to store an extra vehicle. You wouldn’t need the added cost of liability ins. (I know in a SHTF scenario who cares about ins.!) prior to SHTF. You wouldn’t have to replace plugs, points and condenser, and who knows how to do that these days? It just seems more practical to not buy an extra vehicle.

    Reply to this comment
    • Carrie March 16, 08:55

      Why not do both? Two is one and one is none.
      Also, the “fuel of the day” (gasoline) won’t be good for very long. That’s why diesel is better. It lasts longer, can be mixed with other things like used engine oil or canola oil, and can even run on bio-diesel made from animal fats.

      Reply to this comment
    • DW111 November 1, 16:38

      I agree, how do you find out what components would need to be replace? I would really like to store key components for at least one of our trucks!

      Reply to this comment
      • Omi January 14, 16:17

        I’d like to know more about this too. Modern vehicles have hundreds and hundreds of potentially EMP susceptible microprocessors, and hundreds if not thousands of more susceptible chips. Good long article about this here:

        I know that the ECU (engine control unit) would be one component that’d need to be replaced for sure, but I suspect there are others, such as each fuel injectors, etc. I’d love to see a complete list from a mechanic that lists all the things I’d have to have on hand to get my new truck running again. I’m sure this’d be no small expense too (the ECU alone will run you $800-$2000!) but it’d be worth it IMHO. And of course you’d have to be able to wrench on your vehicle to replace everything fried.

        Anyhow, does anyone have a source for this full list of EMP susceptible auto electronics?

        Reply to this comment
    • mach37 March 7, 20:13

      There is a lot more electronics than just the ECU that would be affected. My V6 has individual ignition coils on each spark plug that I’m sure have diodes or even microchips in them. The regulator on the alternator would likely be fried.

      Reply to this comment
    • the gray man September 6, 18:10

      Donnie , if you don’t know how to do basic things like replacing plugs , points and condenser you should learn . and like a lot here have said , diesel powered veh. are a better choice . a commenter above ( pappy .) funny , pappy is my nic on youtube .) said he runs a 60/40 mix , old used ( filtered i’m betting ) car oil and regular diesel . might smoke a bit but you’d still be mobile .

      Reply to this comment
    • BKPawpaw November 14, 06:09

      Donnie, the error in your thinking is that nearly every car has more than ONE integrated circuit or solid state device installed. ALL of the sensors attached to an ECM are solid state and will be destroyed and must be replaced. The wiring may be small enough (to save those 0.5 ounces) to be ruined also.

      Reply to this comment
  10. Rooster March 22, 21:09

    Once the EMP has been detonated and the damage is done . Will it continue to do its evil on the grid and on our electronics ? How long will it last ?

    Reply to this comment
    • BQPAHplays minecraft May 9, 20:51

      The EMP will last only a couple minutes in the area affected at the time after it goes off as far as I know. But just to be safe I would wait half an hour before I take anything out of there faraday cages or start repairing things or turning them on.

      Reply to this comment
      • CommsGuy January 14, 18:05

        The initial pulse will only last for seconds. However, if it was created by an enemy state they will most like fire off one blast then wait an hour (after everyone has pulled all their EMP prove stuff out of the Faraday cages) then blast off a second one to finish the job. Wait at least 3 hrs before pulling out your spare electronics. Then you will also know if it was caused by a nuke or a CME from the Sun.

        Reply to this comment
  11. Email Spike Review March 25, 07:06

    A precedence is made to keep these business elements working and,
    ought to a disruption happen, a BCP defines (in order of precedence and chain of command) the best way to
    hold your business fully operational while minimizing downtime.

    Reply to this comment
  12. Battery Guy March 29, 13:01

    My small Veteran Owned Company makes an EMP Safe Battery Charger that runs on Saltwater. Please check them out on our website.

    Reply to this comment
  13. Nor-Cal patroit March 29, 19:46

    The early model straight axle Toyota 4×4 trucks are also bulletproof. You can get a 1 wire hookup distribute from Davis unified ignitions that use a 1 wire hookup using cheap standard Chevrolet HEI ignition modules

    Reply to this comment
    • mach37 March 1, 20:26

      The HEI ignition module would be okay, IF it survived the initial EMP blast. Better would be to find a simple non-digital system to replace the “cheap” Chevy HEI module.

      Reply to this comment
  14. Allen June 8, 03:29

    I have owned several VWs. The Thing does look the part, but a bug would have better protection and nearly as much space inside, and just as capable off highway. A bus would be even better, with a stronger drivetrain, and a lot more space.

    Reply to this comment
    • Bill June 13, 09:55

      We just got a VW Bug, most of the vehicles listed here are hard to find, or are priced a lot more than shown here. Bugs still easy to find and parts are also.

      Reply to this comment
  15. TreasuryUS July 21, 14:46

    There are some spelling errors in the article. The word When should be Wheel in first paragraph. There a re more…. go find’em…. More comments as I read through today! Greg

    Reply to this comment
  16. TreasuryUS July 21, 19:08

    Ok have reviewed the article and is nicely done. Here are some of my suggestion and/or changes. First my background. 7 Yrs. USMC Intelligence, specialty was WMD Defense/Survival, 2.5 of those yrs. USMC-MP all phases of operations from main gate to traffic control to and including UC work on assaults. Background since leaving USMC, 38 yrs. computers and electronics for 3 of the Fortune 100 companies, and others, in systems administration, logistics and DB administration. 14 Yrs. US Treasury Police (Yes they exist), all operational duties to and including securities destruction and convoy of securities/materials slated for destruction. I feel if I am going to be believed, you’d best have a pedigree and not just some “idea” of what to do during a survival episode.

    1) Start watching or start streaming to watch Walking Dead and it’s spin off, Fear the Walking Dead. It is as close as you are getting as to an FAQ on survival, and it IS believable and totally possible.
    2) Get the DOD manual on Prepardeness, here’s a link to all you need (
    3) I don’t like Hummers – too flashy too cramped. Not dependable, uses too much fuel and the ability to go off road and through water restricted to limits of weight and size of water area to traverse.
    4) Motorcycle – good for quick getaways but you have to be schooled and experienced in motocross to get anywhere safely off road. If you don’t ride, forget it.
    5) Cars – They can be dependable. They can be a headache. I like automatic over stick shift only because not many cars these days everyone is used to has a stick shift. So us oldies (I’m 63) know how to shift, what about the ladies? If you can’t stick shift, use automatics. Nothing like needing a quick getaway and your wife/girlfriend/husband can’t shift!
    6) Trucks/flatbeds – Now here is a vehicle like diesel, it can haul, it can run a road block, it can ford a stream, it can pretty much do anything you need it to do. Get one that’s automatic, has good heater, don’t worry about A/C, 2 tanks or one big one and don’t forget at least one spare tire. There are many but I liked the ones we had in the Corps that I drove once in a while, the M35 2.5 ton cargo truck.

    Need a ink? You should be able to find something here:

    Ok I know you can’t afford that or can’t find one in decent shape. That’s what Google is for, find something that is as close as you can get and you got it made for transportation.

    Storage of gasoline. I keep 5 gals. on hand in shed out back. Use Stabil and follow directions. Want more info?

    One thing about EMP. It only lasts micro-seconds, more in hand technology is going to fail rather than fry your cars computer module, BUT, your car has plenty between it and the source, especially if your far away from the pulse. Read up on EMP, it could be nothing to worry about, depends on a lot of things, height of burst, KT rating of the device, MIRV, weather at time (lightning) etc.

    My best to you all and this is a great forum. Stay safe!

    Reply to this comment
    • Johnny May 26, 04:26

      Thanks for the info sir.

      Reply to this comment
    • luke60 May 28, 05:41

      I disagree about the auto transmission. You can’t push start an auto if the starter is fried. A pre-electronic diesel with a manual transmission is the best choice. They don’t even need an alternator to run. Learn or teach how to drive a stick.

      Reply to this comment
      • Dr. Dan July 14, 17:49

        I agree. The transmission issue is a huge problem. Growing up in rural Montana we didn’t go a week without having to push, pull or coast down a hill with truck, car or tractor. Teach your crew how to drive stick and any motorized vehicle is the same principle.

        Reply to this comment
    • the gray man September 6, 18:15

      TreasuryUS . . . thank you for your service and the heads up tips . handy info you shared there . good on you .

      Reply to this comment
    • PlainJanePrepper June 4, 07:41

      Just a comment. I’m not a snowflake! But…us ladies can drive a stick. My daughter can drive a stick. Not all of us are that ignorant. Just about every woman I know (and I know lots of them from all ages and walks of lfe) can drive manual transmissions. And thank you for the comment. There was some great info!

      Reply to this comment
  17. Boomer August 25, 01:41

    Your thoughts on a ’87 Jeep Comanche 4×4 P/U, I know its not big and heavy, but it seems good and small enough to go way back in the woods without too much strain. Its got enough hauling capcity to carry enuigh supplies to last

    Reply to this comment
    • mach37 March 1, 20:17

      Does it have any computer modules in it?

      Reply to this comment
    • me July 20, 15:46

      87 had electronic ignition and an ecm both of which would not function.

      Reply to this comment
      • Coffee Dragon July 30, 15:55

        Random but a 84 Porsche turbo uses an CIS fuel mngmnt instead of a EFI systym . Essentially a hydraulic fuel pump off the drive crank for constant flow . I know it’s strange but still analog and not “EFI” also has 4wd on some models and with a lift kit would be hilariously emp proof just protect the starter and your good. Luggage rack on top and I have a Dakar Rally car that can carry my gear.

        Reply to this comment
      • philip550c March 15, 00:23

        I have two 87 comanches, Im wondering if I can just get another ignition and ecm and keep them somewhere emp proof and then replace the parts? Would that work?

        Reply to this comment
        • Omi March 16, 12:16

          If the engine has a carburetor and not fuel injection, then that could work. Just be sure to talk to a mechanic to find out which parts exactly you need to set aside, and be sure to put them in a faraday cage to protect them.

          Reply to this comment
  18. Trena September 29, 10:02

    Rattling nice pattern and wonderful content, nothing at all else we
    want :D.

    Reply to this comment
  19. ladybugrules October 5, 16:05

    the one problem I can see with having a working vehicle is the fact that the noise will alert everyone to the fact that you have one.Horses and bikes would also be a good idea.Just make sure your vehicle has 4wd so you can stay off the roads.And,those old Harley’s are not cheap as they are collector items.If you live in the cities,you will want something compact since a lot of cars probably wont be working and they will be blocking the roads,so a fast getaway might be tough,and if your the only one with a vehicle people will surely try to take it away from you.Good luck and stay safe evryone

    Reply to this comment
  20. Mark February 7, 03:18

    22K for an IH Scout II, Damn. Is this a typo?

    Reply to this comment
  21. mach37 March 1, 20:15

    What the H is a slammed Toyota doing here, especially wasting space & time with a video? Slamming those little pickups just destroys their use in a survival situation. Even in the city, their utility is destroyed, having to slow down for gutter dips and speed bumps.

    Reply to this comment
  22. studi30 March 14, 23:16

    Owners of antique and collectable autos would still be running. My restored 1930 Studebaker would keep on moving. Parts would be hard to find but if everything is restored the parts would serve. Many replace the generator with an alternator which would get fried by the EMP.

    Reply to this comment
    • PlainJanePrepper June 4, 07:46

      After everything settles – I’m referring to a die-off, couldn’t parts for your vehicle be easily fabricated? Assuming of course someone near you had the skills to do it, that is.

      Reply to this comment
  23. Pete March 31, 16:53

    Thank you, Great info. I was Nike Hercules-Nuke in the 80’s and the scenario our leaders (NATO) advised was to expect 3 (three) EMP’s, a 1 (one) hour pause from the last one.

    Reply to this comment
  24. S.G. May 8, 21:50

    Bicycles. Not one post-apocalyptic movie has a bicycle anywhere in it, even though the world is already littered with them. Viggo Mortenson and the kid could have covered a lot more ground on The Road if they just grabbed a couple of bikes.

    Reply to this comment
  25. Dc May 29, 03:32

    WHAT YEAR JEEP VEHICLE WOULD BE BEST FOR EMP protection? And what parts shouls I keep for it?

    Reply to this comment
  26. Allen July 20, 01:09

    This sentence was pulled from the article.

    “The ideal post-EMP vehicle is a diesel pickup or SUV with a stick shift and a carbureted engine.”

    Diesel engines don’t have carburetors.
    The older ones had mechanical injection pumps.
    Older gas engines have carburetors.
    If you buy a old carbureted car and it has electronic ignition you are probably still screwed.

    Reply to this comment
  27. Allen July 20, 01:14

    This sentence was pulled from the article.

    “The ideal post-EMP vehicle is a diesel pickup or SUV with a stick shift and a carbureted engine.”

    Diesel engines don’t have carburetors.
    The older ones had mechanical injection pumps.
    Older gas engines have carburetors.
    If you buy an old carbureted car and it has electronic ignition you are probably still screwed.

    Reply to this comment
  28. Common sense goes further than idiots that like to hear themselves puke out dumbass comments September 28, 03:59

    Really,a carbureted diesel?!?!? You are an IDIOT!!!!!! EMP proof that moron!!!!

    Reply to this comment
  29. Remittingaxe April 7, 16:14

    My garage is 3 concrete just below ground level on 3 sides with the typical aluminum exterior, solid foam filled interior garage doors, any thoughts that with a few adjustments in the sealing of gaps etc as to the protection this space will afford in an EMP situation.

    Reply to this comment
    • Omi April 8, 13:42

      Structure needs to be a complete metal cage, all 4 sides plus ceiling AND floor. Once you’ve done that (I assume your floor is not metal), you need to seal ALL the seams with conductive material as best as you can, which is no small task.

      Reply to this comment
  30. DwightUSN1975 May 12, 18:05

    I was wondering-and perhaps the wrong forum or this question may have already been answered earlier
    1974 Chevrolet Monte Carlo with 350 CID V8 and auto transmission? Any Faraday cage ideas? I was planning on getting one of these for the road trip post Sierra Hotel Tango Foxtrot (I was ex-USN 2007 to 2010 Seabees Construction Mechanic E-3) and thought of putting some spares in a Faraday cage in the trunk-any thoughts on this type of placement? Would this be the wrong type of vehicle on flat roads (I live in south Florida-Interstate 95 and county roads around) to get out? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated?

    Reply to this comment
    • Omi May 13, 13:46

      If it’s bone stock, a 1974 vehicle is old enough that it probably won’t have any engine components that are susceptible to an EMP. If it’s been converted to electronic ignition (as many cars have, such as this one: you might want to pick up another full set and keep them in a Faraday cage. Other than this, your car will run fine but the radio will probably be EMP fried. Hope this helps.

      Reply to this comment
      • DwightUSN1975 May 14, 04:36

        Hello Omi-
        Thanks for the suggestion-have been looking at an old 74 Chevy Monte Carlo as a daily driver advertised online-the one I am looking at looks bone stock-from what I have read those cars came with GM HEI ignitions-should I try and find a way to convert to mechanical points ignition (besides taking an old motor out of a 60s Chevy car and putting that into the Monte)
        I have my ham radio and portable CB that I will keep in a Faraday cage and take it out when I need it-the car radio I don’t need as much
        Any thoughts about road travel? Roads to avoid in Sierra Hotel Tango Foxtrot? Many thanks to you and anyone else out there

        Reply to this comment
        • Omi May 14, 13:41

          Happy to help. Any good mechanic or shop who specializes in older cars should be able to convert your ignition back to points and condenser, although the car won’t be as reliable as a daily driver if you do so. Might be a better idea to keep a separate set of electronic ignition parts in your Faraday cage.

          Roads to avoid in SHTF would be the interstates, because they’ll be clogged with Sheeple all trying to escape the cities. Make sure you have a good set of paper maps in the car, and take the time to learn ALL the surface roads that could get you out of the city and to your destination, as you may have to try several before you find one that’s passable. Also make sure you have really good tires on the Monte Carlo, since it’s definitely not an off road vehicle, and consider carrying a couple of spare tires and a good jack.

          Hope this helps.

          Reply to this comment
  31. Carrie Fellows June 3, 15:49

    Are you EMP sensitive? I see the waves and electrical eyes open and shut, most of these cars hook me at least a block-5 away. How did you evaluate this list?
    Does this mean “electric cars” are EMP sickly?
    THANK YOU for web site-not to be argumentative with your research.

    Reply to this comment
    • Omi June 7, 16:48

      Yes, electric cars will likely be completely destroyed by an EMP, as they are full of circuit boards and chips.

      I don’t understand at all what you mean by this: “Are you EMP sensitive? I see the waves and electrical eyes open and shut, most of these cars hook me at least a block-5 away.” Please explain?

      Reply to this comment
  32. car lvr June 26, 05:19

    are classic muscle cars safe? like a 76-era camaro, or maybe a renault alpine a310?

    Reply to this comment
    • Omi June 28, 15:20

      Anything prior to about 1980 is likely to be less EMP-susceptible than cars newer than that. However, many of those cars have been upgraded to electronic ignition systems, which may be impacted. So, it depends on (a) which vehicle you have, and (b) how original it is. Hope this helps.

      Reply to this comment
  33. Rick July 2, 13:52

    I think this is not really much of a problem.

    On page 115, the report states:

    “Automobiles were subjected to EMP environments under both engine turned off and engine turned on conditions. No effects were subsequently observed in those automobiles that were not turned on during EMP exposure. The most serious effect observed on running
    automobiles was that the motors in three cars stopped at field strengths of approximately 30 kV/m or above. In an actual EMP exposure, these vehicles would glide to a stop and require the driver to restart them. Electronics in the dashboard of one automobile were damaged and required repair. Other effects were relatively minor. Twenty-five automobiles exhibited malfunctions that could be considered only a nuisance (e.g., blinking dashboard lights) and did not require driver intervention to correct. Eight of the 37 cars tested did not exhibit any anomalous response. “

    Reply to this comment
    • SL OSO July 3, 13:35


      Reply to this comment
      • left coast chuck June 18, 21:44

        I agree. I have read that test report all the way through. They were the personally owned cars of the participants in the test. Some may have been rented, but mostly privately owned cars.

        Naturally, one’s scientific curiosity does not usually extend to destroying one’s private automobile The test was shut down when some of the cars started to show symptoms of problems.

        As far as I am concerned, this test is useless to provide any meaningful data re EMP and automobiles.

        It is my paranoid personal opinion that we will not see any meaningful test reports from the government. We have Greenies in many positions of influence. How would they react if the government announced that every hybrid or fully electric car failed dismally in a simulated EMP test? How would the buying public react? Would Prius sales go up or down do you suppose?

        And, of course, despite the fact that congressional committees set up to study the problem have reported that we are in a world of hurt due to either an EMP, CME or grid attack, nothing remains done. Congress acts as if they ignore it, nothing bad will happen.

        However, I have read that the chairman of that committee who has since retired from congress has moved his family to an isolated, off-grid farm in West Virginia hill country. Hmm. Wonder if that is true or not? Wonder if he knows something congress refuses to acknowledge?

        Reply to this comment
  34. Edub August 2, 23:01

    Modern tires are actually conductive which means your car is naturally grounded. Tire rubber is black because of added carbon/graphite. If tires weren’t conductive the static electricity generated by the car body passing through the air would almost create lightening.

    Reply to this comment
  35. LKS473 January 27, 15:07

    I own a CUCV. I assure you that they do NOT have powerful engines. 135 HP at 3600 RPM. And no, they don’t make a lot of torque, either. Equipped with TH400 transmissions and 3.08 gears, “peppy” is not a proper adjective.

    Reply to this comment
  36. Rich March 17, 05:53

    Well I am trying to get everything in line and prepare for my family that doesn’t have the funds to to be ready for this kind of emergency. AS for me at near 69 years old, I’m on the down hill side of life. And one comforting thing about this is If I die I’m ready. I have made peace with my Lord and that is something you all should think of as well. Then there is no panic in your inner being to give you a frantic anxiety attack in an EMP. This world will come to an end as we know it. It is in the instruction book. God’s word. I was in an auto accident once. I was knocked unconscious and I didn’t feel the pain that put me in that state. But I sure did when I came to. So if your life is snuffed out in an instant, You probably wont fell any pain when you check out anyway. Yet we all fear that unknown anyway. So remove the fear and be ready.

    Reply to this comment
  37. Trucker June 24, 06:30

    Is a 18 wheeler emp proof ?,

    Reply to this comment
  38. USN Retired September 22, 15:45

    Just wondered how long I would be safe driving around in my EMP proof vehicle after everybody else found that theirs would not work or… worse, quit while they were out on the road when the EMP strike happened? I’d probably need to be armed to the teeth, huh? I think it would be better to Bug In.

    Reply to this comment
    • Omi September 22, 16:35

      Having a working vehicle after an EMP will *DEFINITELY* make you a HUGE target. I’d say use it just once to get out of town and to your permanent bug-out location.

      Reply to this comment
  39. joe February 1, 04:45

    I don’t know about the Harley as not of that model, but for all the others, They all have alternators, and in those alternators are electronic diodes, any diode or transistor, integrated circuit, including solar cells which are just light diodes will be destroywe by any EMP

    Reply to this comment
  40. Jim February 12, 18:38

    Trucker did ask a good question. Would a tractor trailer make a good cage or at least the start on one?

    Reply to this comment
    • left coast chuck June 18, 21:52

      The tractor would not. Most modern semi-tractors have all kinds of electronics in them. The trailer if the body were all aluminum and could be sealed tightly could act as a Faraday cage. One would have to insure that nothing was touching the metal sides. A trailer unit is just a big Conex box on wheels. Conex boxes have been suggested as Faraday cage devices so there is no reason why a metal trailer unit could not be so used.

      The tractor portion of the tractor-trailer would be toast along with all the other cars on the road.

      Reply to this comment
  41. Nico October 19, 13:52

    Would be the classic mini ok for this, or in general classic cars?

    Reply to this comment
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